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The article does describe the broken clutch lever pin problems, & you will find the the exact part numbers & information in my own for your Airhead. Duane's article does not cover a LOT of what I do & certainly does not cover all my testing, nor how to go about any ideas of overhauling a transmission, shimming it, nor ANYthing about the 17.5 gear angle change, etc.
Airhead shifts similarly except that the shift levers are moved by a flat plate cam. Some information not covered in my own transmission article, below, that you are reading. I have some nitpicking with some of the information, mostly not worth relating here.
I recommended that you do use them unless: you live in an area where the temperature that you start the bike at will be ~100F or more (that also means the un-started engine temperature generally), and that you will be riding fast &/or with heavy loading, or pulling a sidecar or trailer ...in very hot weather ... There is an exception; some transmissions will stiffen-up gear changing when the oil is hot.
There are oils available that replace the "90" with 120 or even 145.
There is no question in my mind, that HIGH QUALITY SYNTHETIC GL5-rated oils will, or can, PROLONG the life of your transmission (& rear drive).
That does not mean that they should always be used.
I also said that you could use 75W90, 80W90, or 85W90, depending on weather.
In the past I recommended you use ONLY a quality GL5 oil in your Airhead transmission; preferably in grade 80W90 for most conditions.
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Link #5: has never waivered in its Airhead motorcycles' transmission oil recommendations, and this includes the last Airheads.
My article is VASTLY more complete, particularly about 5 speed transmission problems.
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#2: This shows how a typical transmission, in this case a drum type cam similar to a Classic K bike, might shift. #4: Some information how a transmission works; /2 transmissions, testing, details.